![]() ![]() It might not even be a true communication, but only a sense wire with a specific voltage on it, or a specific resistance, or it may have a specific PWM pulsetrain on it, etc., that just the OEM controller requires to operate.ĭid the display and controller come as a set? If not, the one may be incompatible with the other, by wiring or by communication protocol/dataset. There are some OEM systems that use communication between battery and controller such that the system won't power on without the correct battery in working condition.but the battery may well work fine to power a different controller that doesn't require this comm. (have to see once it's working if it will keep powering the system under motor loading). If you can see the correct voltage on the battery main +/- wires even when the controller is connected to it as a load, and it doesn't drop or "decay", then the battery is able to power the controller at least enough to turn it on. Am I wrong to assume I should at least be able to get the system to power on or respond? The battery is located in the center of the bike in the seat tube. The battery is a 3 pin connector, standard red and black but with a yellow wire coming off the center pin of the battery connector. That, or the controller/display I received is bad, which is possible I guess, when I upgraded the controller on my wife's bike I received 6 bad units from Amazon before ordering from Aliexpress Apparently it is called a "wettsen" system and I cannot find any information about it. I spoke with Izip, apparently this is a "smart" battery and there is a "data" wire coming off the battery and that's why I cannot get the new controller to power on, which doesn't make sense to me, so I'm here to learn. Charging system works fine but I cannot get the controller to power up at all, completely unresponsive. The battery is healthy and is showing 52.5v on a 48v battery. This is the controller I purchased, the 750w version as it has the same "3 pin" plug that is actually a 9 pin Originally the controller was located in the center tube and not the motor. Izip has *most* of the parts, at $500 but no wiring harness, which is just too much to repair this thing. I figured I could buy a new controller and get it going for pretty cheap, unfortunately so far that has not been the case. Unfortunately all the controller parts and wiring harnesses were removed. Love the way it rides and the rack system. Good Luck! If you do a conversion post pics of your bike when you've got it going.Bought this bike used for a pretty great deal. It hasn't gotten hot on my rides, so I think that is sufficient for my needs. and I got a thick piece of aluminum and screwed it to the controller using comptuer heat sink compound, and zip tied that ass'y to the frame where the wind hits it. I programmed the controller to do pedal assist power in 100W increments, the small switch that mounts on the handlebars toggles the pedal assist level, at 100W I get over 80 miles on a single battery charge. Notes: I bought the wrong twist throttle by accident, you have to rotate this one forward for it to work, but it turns out I like it because sometimes when I'm standing up on a long hill I'll pull back on the throttle without intending to, so this prevents that. If you're at all nervous about getting this right, which is a concern since you don't want to waste money, simply asking them to handle it in email works great, their customer service is 2nd to none. IIRC they didn't list the SX2 in their online spoke length calculator at that time, so I asked them to cut the left and right spokes (which turned out to be the same length for my motor) based on the ERD I got from the manufacturer. ![]() I attached a picture showing the spoke lengths they calculated for my order, and an axle stabilizer I bought on ebay as an afterthought.ĮRD - Effective rim diameter (ERD) explained I emailed the wheel manufacturer to get the exact ERD since my measurements always come up with a different number, lol. ![]() Their spokes worked perfectly for my wheel. I found that single cross works fine for my style of riding, all street, I haven't had any problems over dozens of trips sometimes involving going off curbs or through potholes. If you tell them the *ERD of your rim they will cut the right length spokes for you to lace their motor to your wheel, you have to specify single-cross (how many times each spoke crosses another spoke) or other crossing options. I recommend you consider asking them if any of your hardware will work: from my discussions it seemed like none of it would work with their controller. I removed all of the old hardware and replaced it with Grin stuff, (order details below.) Grin has excellent customer service, I emailed them many times even apologizing if I was being annoying, they were totally supportive and answered all of my many questions. ![]()
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